Answered · Electric and Opening Rooflights

Can electric rooflights be fitted to old buildings?

The short answer

Yes, and across Essex it happens constantly. The obstacles in an older building are almost never the motor. They are the frame profile a conservation officer will accept, the route a cable can take through walls that have no cavity, and the state of the timber the unit is going to sit on. Solve those three and an actuator is the easy part, because a modern chain drive hides inside a frame head and needs nothing from the building except a low voltage supply.

Essex has an unusual concentration of protected fabric. Timber frame and pargeting at Thaxted, Coggeshall and Saffron Walden. White weatherboard through the Blackwater villages and around Stock. Victorian brick terraces across Chelmsford and Colchester, and the older core of Maldon. Each brings a different constraint, and the roof decides more than the product list does. The mechanics of motorised units are set out on the electric and opening rooflight page.

The frame profile settles it before the motor does

In a conservation area the usual expectation is that the rooflight sits flush with the slope and reads as historically plausible: a slim dark cast or steel frame with a central glazing bar, rather than a deep white plastic surround standing proud. That requirement lands on the frame, and the frame is what an actuator has to live inside.

Modern conservation ranges accommodate this. The sections are slimmer than a standard roof window but they are still hollow extrusions or castings with a head deep enough to take a slim chain casing. What narrows is the choice of unit, not the choice of mechanism, and it narrows further on smaller sizes where there is simply less frame to work with. The frame side of this is covered on the conservation rooflight page.

Hiding an actuator in a slim cast section

Two arrangements are common. The neater one has the actuator concealed within the head of the sash so that nothing is visible from the room but the chain when the pane is open, and nothing is visible from outside at all. The alternative is a surface mounted casing on the internal face of the frame, which is entirely sound and is more obvious.

Where the flush appearance is a planning requirement, the important point is that it concerns the outside face. A conservation officer is looking at the roof from the street. What is fitted inside the reveal is not usually part of that judgement, which means a surface mounted actuator is often perfectly acceptable on a unit whose external profile has already satisfied the requirement.

Solid walls, lath and plaster, and where a cable can actually go

This is the real difficulty in an old house, and it has nothing to do with rooflights. A Victorian terrace has solid brick walls with no cavity and lime plaster on the face. A timber framed house at Thaxted has panels you should not be chasing at all. A weatherboarded cottage has a frame behind the boards and very little room in it.

The routes that work are the ones that follow existing voids: the space between floor joists, the void behind a boxed service run, the back of a fitted cupboard, or the roof space itself dropping down beside a chimney breast. A 24V cable is thin and it can take a long indirect route without difficulty, which is the useful part. What it cannot do is arrive through a plastered wall that nobody is willing to open.

In an old house the cable route is settled at survey, before any unit is ordered, because it is the constraint that decides between wired and solar.

Solar, and where it becomes the honest answer

A solar opener carries a small photovoltaic panel on the outside of the frame and a rechargeable cell inside it, and it needs no cable at all. On a finished period interior where every route involves lifting a floor in a room that has just been decorated, that is not a compromise. It is the correct specification.

Two conditions have to hold. The panel needs daylight on it, so a unit on a north facing slope shaded by a neighbouring roof or a mature tree will charge slowly through a dull winter. And the cell is a serviceable part with a life measured in years, replaced rather than nursed, so it wants to be a unit you can reach. On a south or west facing slope in an Essex village, solar is usually the least disruptive route by a wide margin.

What the roof structure allows

Old roofs are cut roofs, with common rafters spanning between a ridge and a wall plate, and that is good news. Rafters can be trimmed: double the ones either side, put trimmers in above and below, and the opening is framed. It is routine carpentry and it has been done to these roofs for two hundred years.

The complications are specific rather than general. Rafter spacing in a hand cut roof is whatever the carpenter decided, often irregular, so a standard unit width may not land between two of them. Timber sizes are frequently smaller than modern equivalents. And in a house that has been altered repeatedly, what is holding up the slope may not be what the drawing suggests. All of this is found at survey rather than on the day the covering comes off.

The covering, and the care it needs coming off

Hand made clay peg tiles, natural slate on riven battens, and old plain tiles are brittle and irreplaceable in the sense that matters: a modern equivalent will not match. Working an opening into them is slower and more skilled than dressing a single ply membrane, and a proportion of the tiles lifted will not go back.

The practical approach is to lift carefully, set aside sound tiles for reuse around the opening where they are most visible, and source matching salvage for the rest. On a listed roof, what goes back is often specified rather than chosen. Under a slate roof there may be torching, a lime and hair mortar bedded between the slates, which changes how the underlay and flashing detail is formed.

Movement, damp and the tolerances of an old roof

Older roofs move. Timber framed houses in particular have lived with seasonal movement for centuries and the slopes are rarely flat planes. An opening unit is more sensitive to this than a fixed one, because a frame set into a slope that is out of true takes up the twist and the sash then meets its gasket harder on one corner.

The fix is in the trimming. The opening is framed square and level in its own right, packed off the existing rafters as required, so the unit sits on a true plane whatever the surrounding roof is doing. That takes longer than dropping a unit into a modern trussed roof, and it is the single most important hour of the installation on an old building.

Sequencing on a house somebody lives in

The order of work in an occupied period house matters more than in an empty extension. Access is usually from scaffold rather than from a garden, the internal ceiling below the opening is often lath and plaster that will not tolerate a dropped tile, and the rooms in question are in use.

The sequence is consistent: protect below, strip back the covering carefully and set the sound material aside, form and trim the opening square, run and terminate the low voltage cable or fit the solar unit, set the rooflight, weather it, make the covering good with the salvaged material, then finish the reveal. The roof is closed and watertight at the end of every working day, whatever the forecast has decided to do. Sunspire handles the Building Control notification as part of the job.

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